We decided to use the same method as the time we attached the wing for setting the angle of incidence. So we use the small saw horses with MDF plates and old seat cushions. This time the Wings are painted, so we need to be extra careful.

For the left wing we measure the distance to the first saw horse. We need enough room for the Pitot/AoA tube.

This time it is easier to insert the wing spar into the main bulk head, Probably because we are ‘experienced’. Also we need to take care of the bottom skin. The bottom skin of the fuselage slides over the skin of the wings.

Once the main wing spar has been inserted into the main bulk head, the aft spar needs to slide into the seat bulk head. There is not much leverage to get the aft spar in the bulk head. By gently wiggling the Wing we can slide it in.

With both spars installed and the skins correctly weaved, we can attach the forward wing bracket. It connects the fuel tank bracket to the fuselage. Now we need to connect the Fuel line, the return line, the vent line and the fuel level sender wire.

The last step (and by far the the hardest) is inserting all the 10 bolts on the inside that clamp the wing spar to the main bulk head. The bolts fit is really tight inside spars and it takes some time to get them all in.

Ok, next up the right wing, this is easier, because of even more ‘experience’. Also there are less connections and there is no Pitot tube. In order to make it easier to insert the wings, we have the crates under the tailwheel to set the plane (almost) level.

The Wing is not that heavy, picking it from the cradle, however there is very little space, so it’s hard to insert the wing, while holding it at the leading edge.

I made the holes in the wing ribs and fuselage skin for the electric wiring with a very tight fit. It makes it really hard push through the skins. It prevents vibrations during flight, but it’s horrible when the wing is just hanging there.

Now again inserting all the bolts, to secure the wing (spar) to the main bulkhead.

Now I can screw the nuts on and torque the nuts.

When the Wings are attached, we can lower the tailwheel to the ground.

Time: 6 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-19)

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-22)

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-26)

Time: 6 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-29)

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-10-03)

Video

Especially the lateral adjustment with the washers is important.
Once the Aileron is set, I use an Aluminum angle to align the Flap.

First I drilled the outboard and inboard most rivet holes in the piano hinge.

Than drilling and cleco-ing all the other rivet holes.
We can now remove the Flap and start riveting the piano hinge together with the last piece of bottom skin to the Flap brace.

Wherever possible I use the pneumatic squeezer.
Now we can attach the Flap with the piano hinge.

According to the plans there are two ways to lock the piano hinge. One is to drill a small hole (off center) in the Aileron hinge, the other is to remove some piano hinge “eyes” in the middle and lock it there.

I decide to take the first approach, but I’ll execute that later (much later, when I attach the wings to the Fuselage.
Now with the Aileron and Flap attached to the right Wing, we move it to the other side of the workshop to work on the left Wing.

Else we had to lift the left Wing over the right one, which is not convenient.
With the Wing stand on the other side we can easily pick up the left Wing and place it on the table.

We have to be careful, because the pitot-tube is extending from the bottom side.
Now we can repeat the actions for the left Wing.

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets: 190/1 (2019-03-03)

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets:  92/0 (2019-05-12)

Video

Here’s the right bottom skin with the ribs riveted to the bottom skin and the bend in the skin that serves as the rear spar of the Flap. It’s vital to mark all parts including the order (not all spars are equal).

Although the inboard and outboard ribs go last, you need to cleco them to rivet the doublers and nutplates for the flap actuators.

The bottom and top skins must be riveted together on the bottom side. However on the leading edge the Flap is not closed. The rear spar of the Wing serves as the front of the Flap.

There is not much space to rivet the skins and ribs, so you have to follow the plans to prevent riveting yourself in a corner.

Just before the inboard and outboard ribs, you close the Flap, by inserting the front spar. This one can be riveted to the top and bottom skin, but joining it to the ribs must be done with pop-rivets.

After closing the left flap, we now do the same with the right Flap. Again I build left and right in parallel wherever possible.

After pop-riveting the main spar to the ribs we can rivet the top and bottom skin. The latter can be done by the squeezer, however the top skin is “curled” and requires the rivet gun and bucking bar.

Oh yeah don’t forget the piano hinge when riveting the bottom skin to the main spar or you have to drill out 50 rivets or so.

Time: 2 Hours, Rivets:   45/0 (2019-03-27)

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets:  114/0 (2019-04-14)

Video

This results in about 7 short seasons in the last 3 months where I worked en the flaps preparing them for priming.
Starting of as always with the deburring of the parts. In this case the lighting holes in the Flap Spars.

Instead of deburring the flenge sides with a file or sand paper, the Scotch Brite wheel is so much easier and delivers a better result.

Assembling the flaps for match drilling. I work on left and right in parallel. The Wing where I’m also working on is also on the table.

Match drilling the spar to the end ribs of the spar. On this part there is some extra work as there are doublers to attach the flap drive to.

Here you can see the doubler of the Spar. There is also a doubler of the inner rib. Both will be riveted together to create a strong construction.

The finished result before priming that is. Now I have to detach every thing again and clean it up for priming.

Time: 5 Hours, Rivets:  0/0 (2019-02-06)

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets:  0/0 (2019-02-16)

Time: 3 Hours, Rivets:  0/0 (2019-02-20)

Time: 2 Hours, Rivets:  0/0 (2019-02-27)

Time: 2 Hours, Rivets:  0/0 (2019-03-02)

Time: 2 Hours, Rivets:  0/0 (2019-03-09)

Video

I love the smell of Aluminum in the morning! I placed the left wing in the stand, attached the tank and clecoed the top skin to it, in order to rivet it this weekend.

After five hours of doing little things here and there and cleaning up, the right wing could be placed in the wing cradle. The flap brace is the one with the lighting holes and the aileron fairing in the sloped strip between the aileron brackets.

Here’s the outboard aileron bracket, I used a flush rivet in the bottom hole, so the aileron won’t touch the bracket attachment. The aileron fairing is attached to the rear spar and the top skin.

In the center of the wing is the other aileron bracket. Again on the aileron side I used a flush rivet.

According to SERVICE BULLETIN 16-03-28, there can be Cracking of wing aft spar web at the inboard aileron hinge bracket attach rivet. Van’s Aircraft send me some doubler plates enclosed with the wing kit.

I attached the aileron bracket together with the new doubler plates. I did modify the plates by trimming the bottom side, to be able to buck the rivets when riveting the bottom skin.

The flap brace is thicker than the aileron fairing. It’s also attached to the rear spar, but will be clecoed together with the flap hinges to the bottom skin. So the ailerons are attached to the wings with brackets with bearings, while the flaps are attached to the brace with a piano hinge.

Time: 5 Hours, Rivets: 114/1