We decided to use the same method as the time we attached the wing for setting the angle of incidence. So we use the small saw horses with MDF plates and old seat cushions. This time the Wings are painted, so we need to be extra careful.

For the left wing we measure the distance to the first saw horse. We need enough room for the Pitot/AoA tube.

This time it is easier to insert the wing spar into the main bulk head, Probably because we are ‘experienced’. Also we need to take care of the bottom skin. The bottom skin of the fuselage slides over the skin of the wings.

Once the main wing spar has been inserted into the main bulk head, the aft spar needs to slide into the seat bulk head. There is not much leverage to get the aft spar in the bulk head. By gently wiggling the Wing we can slide it in.

With both spars installed and the skins correctly weaved, we can attach the forward wing bracket. It connects the fuel tank bracket to the fuselage. Now we need to connect the Fuel line, the return line, the vent line and the fuel level sender wire.

The last step (and by far the the hardest) is inserting all the 10 bolts on the inside that clamp the wing spar to the main bulk head. The bolts fit is really tight inside spars and it takes some time to get them all in.

Ok, next up the right wing, this is easier, because of even more ‘experience’. Also there are less connections and there is no Pitot tube. In order to make it easier to insert the wings, we have the crates under the tailwheel to set the plane (almost) level.

The Wing is not that heavy, picking it from the cradle, however there is very little space, so it’s hard to insert the wing, while holding it at the leading edge.

I made the holes in the wing ribs and fuselage skin for the electric wiring with a very tight fit. It makes it really hard push through the skins. It prevents vibrations during flight, but it’s horrible when the wing is just hanging there.

Now again inserting all the bolts, to secure the wing (spar) to the main bulkhead.

Now I can screw the nuts on and torque the nuts.

When the Wings are attached, we can lower the tailwheel to the ground.

Time: 6 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-19)

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-22)

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-26)

Time: 6 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-29)

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-10-03)

Video

The Wing stand (with the Right Wing) is placed to the left wall. So we can place the Left wing on the workbench.

We have to remove the Left Tank from the wing, because we need to attach a wire to the Fuel Level Sender (I forgot) and to install a wider Fuel Return Line (I made the wrong assumption). I built the return line just in case I would select a fuel injected engine (which I did). However I assumed the return line didn’t need to be that wide. Right?!

I remove the bolts that fasten the Wing to the Fuselage, while my Dad “wiggles” the Wing, to remove it from the main bulkhead.

I decided not to remove the Tank right now and first fix the Fuel Return Line. As you can see the wing barely fits in the workshop.

With the Wings detached and set aside, we can now maneuver the Fuselage outside.

The door of the workshop is not wide enough to fit the Landing Gear, however we can lift it to the side, so we can drag the plane outside.
No idea how to do this if there is a heavy engine in it, we’ll see.

It’s like a puzzle. Now we rearrange the workshop with the Wing Stand.

And also with the workbench, so we can push the Fuselage back in again.

Backwards is harder, as you need to keep the tail-wheel straight. I opened the Left Tank via the hole that normally holds the Fuel Level Sender.

However that hole is not used for that, as the Sender is in the second or third compartment due to the Flop Tube. With the endoscope we can check the location and routing of the Fuel Return Line.

We removed the “old” Return Line and inserted the new Return Line.

We cleaned up the cover plate and we can use the remaining Tank Sealant to seal the plate to the Tank.

Because I stored the Tank Sealant in a cellar, it is kept cold and I can still use it.

I use the sealant also to keep the return line in position and I covered both the Tank and the plate with it.

Time to screw the plate in place and remove the tank from the wing.

After a night of testing the Tank turns out to be sealed (again).

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2020-11-15)

Time: 2 Hours, Rivets: 58/1  (2020-11-16)

Video

While the right wing snapped in real easy in place, we had less luck with the left wing. Every time we run into issues, the endoscope is a real help. This time it allows us to see the alignment of the holes.

To set the wing exactly perpendicular to the fuselage, I use a laser measure, to check the distance from a specific point on the wing tip to the attachment point of the horizontal stabilizer.

With the plane level to the ground, we use a level and a template to set the correct angle of incidence. We do this on multiple points on the wing, which should all result in the same angle of incidence.

With both the sweep angle and the angle of incidence set, we can drill the hole through both the secondary bulkhead and the rear wing spar.

Before the wing cover plate can be fitted, the fuel tubes sticking out need to be trimmed and bend.

The cover plate needs to be match drilled with the bottom skin of the fuselage. Again I’m remembered that safety glasses are an indispensable tool when drilling above head.

Drilling the top part of the cover plate is tricky as the inside skin tends to dip down. With a wrench and an angle, I keep the plate in place, while my dad does the drilling.

With the wing set, I can now attach the flap and fit the flap push rod.

Time: 8 Hours, Rivets: 58/1  (2020-11-04)

Time: 8 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2020-11-08)

Time: 6 Hours, Rivets: 12/1  (2020-11-11)

Video

I briefly thought I could finish these tasks by tugging the Fuselage outside, attaching the Wings an do all the work. But when I looked at the list, there is no way I could finish that in one day. Turns out it took me five days.

The Van’s manual states that you could do it “per Wing”, if your workshop is small. After careful consideration I decided, that it is probably better to go that route than postponing all the “little tasks”.

So we set some saw-horses that almost match the height of the RV wings (once leveled) and asked help of the family to diligently lay the Wing on the saw-horses. My faces shows I realize if we drop it, I’m going to cry like a little girl.

One of those tasks is the Fuel line sticking out of the Fuselage, preventing us from attaching the Wing. We need to measure how far the Wing goes in and consequently how much needs to be cut from the Fuel line. Again, every task requires focus, because failure will result in serious setbacks.

The Wing doesn’t slide in like that. It requires some force as the main bulkhead really clamps the main spar. With the Fuel line cut to the right size, we can now attache the wing all the way into the main bulkhead.

Besides the main bulkhead, the rear spar also needs to fit between to bars in the seat bulkhead and the forward tank attach angle needs to align and the bottom skins need to slip over the Wing skins. The last few inches is a delicate task.

another task is the cover strip that covers the gap between the wing and the Fuselage. It requires fitting, trimming, match drilling and dimpling. Again, this can only be done after attaching the Wing.

Tip of the day, wear glasses when drilling above your head. It sounds obvious, but I always forget an get reminded when pieces of Aluminum shoot into my eyes.

One major task is attaching the Flap push rod. The hole in the Fuselage needs to be enlarged and elongated to track the Flap push rod. Can only be done with the wing attached and this took the rest of the evening and part of the next day.

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2020-10-21)

Time: 6 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2020-10-25)

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2020-10-28)

Time: 6 Hours, Rivets:  0/1  (2020-10-31)

Video

Another option is to attach them permanently to the wings with rivets, either blind or solid rivets. I decided to go for the latter option.

Using solid rivets is a challenge, as the rivets at the trailing edge are hard to reach. I bought an inexpensive endoscope and connected it to a small laptop. This provides me with the ‘sight’ I need to determine if the rivets are set correctly.

Now I can reach in with the bucking bar and check the laptop to see whether I’m bucking at the right place and afterwards the quality of the work. Without the endoscope it’s really hard to check inside.

The aft most rivets can be reached by lifting the Aileron. Now that the bottom side of the right Wing is done we turn the Wing top side up on the workbench.

The rivets on the top side are even harder to reach. I duck-taped a hammer as a counter-weight to a stick and taped the bucking bar to the front.

Again by checking the endoscope image on the laptop we can determine the correct position.

With the right Wing finished, we now need to swap Wings. The workshop is too small to handle the swap, so I rolled the workbench out and positioned the cradle to insert the finished Wing.

Now we can lift the left Wing out of the cradle and place it on the workbench. Last stop is moving the cradle out of the way.

The left Wing is a little trickier, because the Pitot tube is in the way. Working on the bottom that is not a problem yet.

To determine the alignment of the Wing Tip, we use a string, that ‘cuts’ through the tooling holes, visualizing the chord. With that, we can position the Aileron in a exact level position.

With the Aileron set, we align the Wing Tip to match the Aileron. The aft most part of the Wing Tip has a small rib inside, because there is no Wing there to keep the Tip in shape.

Drilling the top would be easier the other way around, but with the Pitot tube turning the Wing is not that easy.

To prevent the glass fiber Wing Tip from cracking when riveted, we attach a small Aluminum strip on the inside.

Since the Wing Tip is very flexible, it is easy compressible. To prevent ‘floppy’ Wing Tips, I prepared a foam rib covered with fiberglass and epoxy resin to create a strong structure. Later I glued the rib with resin inside the Wing Tip.

Because I use Flyleds, the lighting panels can almost be completely removed. Now there is enough room to reach inside the Wing Tip. Also for maintenance purposes later.

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets: 29/0  (2020-08-08)

Time: 6 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2020-08-09)

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2020-08-10)

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets: 29/0  (2020-08-15)

Video

Especially the lateral adjustment with the washers is important.
Once the Aileron is set, I use an Aluminum angle to align the Flap.

First I drilled the outboard and inboard most rivet holes in the piano hinge.

Than drilling and cleco-ing all the other rivet holes.
We can now remove the Flap and start riveting the piano hinge together with the last piece of bottom skin to the Flap brace.

Wherever possible I use the pneumatic squeezer.
Now we can attach the Flap with the piano hinge.

According to the plans there are two ways to lock the piano hinge. One is to drill a small hole (off center) in the Aileron hinge, the other is to remove some piano hinge “eyes” in the middle and lock it there.

I decide to take the first approach, but I’ll execute that later (much later, when I attach the wings to the Fuselage.
Now with the Aileron and Flap attached to the right Wing, we move it to the other side of the workshop to work on the left Wing.

Else we had to lift the left Wing over the right one, which is not convenient.
With the Wing stand on the other side we can easily pick up the left Wing and place it on the table.

We have to be careful, because the pitot-tube is extending from the bottom side.
Now we can repeat the actions for the left Wing.

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets: 190/1 (2019-03-03)

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets:  92/0 (2019-05-12)

Video

Here’s the right bottom skin with the ribs riveted to the bottom skin and the bend in the skin that serves as the rear spar of the Flap. It’s vital to mark all parts including the order (not all spars are equal).

Although the inboard and outboard ribs go last, you need to cleco them to rivet the doublers and nutplates for the flap actuators.

The bottom and top skins must be riveted together on the bottom side. However on the leading edge the Flap is not closed. The rear spar of the Wing serves as the front of the Flap.

There is not much space to rivet the skins and ribs, so you have to follow the plans to prevent riveting yourself in a corner.

Just before the inboard and outboard ribs, you close the Flap, by inserting the front spar. This one can be riveted to the top and bottom skin, but joining it to the ribs must be done with pop-rivets.

After closing the left flap, we now do the same with the right Flap. Again I build left and right in parallel wherever possible.

After pop-riveting the main spar to the ribs we can rivet the top and bottom skin. The latter can be done by the squeezer, however the top skin is “curled” and requires the rivet gun and bucking bar.

Oh yeah don’t forget the piano hinge when riveting the bottom skin to the main spar or you have to drill out 50 rivets or so.

Time: 2 Hours, Rivets:   45/0 (2019-03-27)

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets:  114/0 (2019-04-14)

Video

This results in about 7 short seasons in the last 3 months where I worked en the flaps preparing them for priming.
Starting of as always with the deburring of the parts. In this case the lighting holes in the Flap Spars.

Instead of deburring the flenge sides with a file or sand paper, the Scotch Brite wheel is so much easier and delivers a better result.

Assembling the flaps for match drilling. I work on left and right in parallel. The Wing where I’m also working on is also on the table.

Match drilling the spar to the end ribs of the spar. On this part there is some extra work as there are doublers to attach the flap drive to.

Here you can see the doubler of the Spar. There is also a doubler of the inner rib. Both will be riveted together to create a strong construction.

The finished result before priming that is. Now I have to detach every thing again and clean it up for priming.

Time: 5 Hours, Rivets:  0/0 (2019-02-06)

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets:  0/0 (2019-02-16)

Time: 3 Hours, Rivets:  0/0 (2019-02-20)

Time: 2 Hours, Rivets:  0/0 (2019-02-27)

Time: 2 Hours, Rivets:  0/0 (2019-03-02)

Time: 2 Hours, Rivets:  0/0 (2019-03-09)

Video

On the inboard side of the wings are several ribs that support the “wing walk”. These ribs are so close to each other that it is hard to get your hands (with bucking bar) in there. From the trailing edge until half way you have to work from the main spar side.

After that, the lighting holes in the ribs are big enough to get your arms through and work from the inboard side.
The outboard skin of the left wing contains the pitot tube and angle of attack sensor. I look the liberty, to buy a nice pitot tube, but that requires some extra rivets to attach it.

Because the doubler plate is on the other side of the main spar web than the skin, you cannot rivet the pitot tube assembly before attaching the skin. You have to rivet it all together.

Also I added some custom stiffeners to strengthen the construction and one of the stiffeners must be attached to the rib. Maybe overkill, but the price of the pitot tube convinced me to take precautions.

The outboard skin is wider and has only one access hole, hence you have to “work” with it to rivet the tight places. As you can see here, the skin is very flexible. Of course there is a limit to it and with folding the skins in the empennage and the ailerons, you kind of get the feeling how far you can stress the aluminum.

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets: 322/0

Video

Also the outboard skin is longer (wider) and has only one access hole. So e need to “bend” the skin more than the inboard skin.

However you have to be careful not to overstretch the skin and really dent the skin deforming it beyond repair.

You can reach the rear spar side via the forward side lifting the forward side of the skin. The main spar side can be reach via the holes in the ribs, lifting the side of the skin.

The last few rivets and the right wing is closed. Note the tape on the inboard rivet holes. These should not be riveted now, but are probably used for attaching the fairing that joins the wing and the fuselage.

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets: 293/5

Video