Aero Expo Bad Weather

Aero Expo, Made it

Aero Expo, Road Taxi

Aero Expo Build Up

Aero Expo Interview

Aero Expo, Hit the Road

Aero Expo, Flying Home

Flying with my Dad

Wheel Shimmy

Flying with my son

Durability Flight

Me and my dad toasting at finishing the RV-7 now known as PH-MNX.
Since I only have a little over 80 hours ‘under my belt’ and never landed an RV-7, I decided to take a ‘safety pilot’. Maarten is a retired Dutch Airforce pilot, who flew F104 (Starfighter) and has a lot of hours on his RV-7 (PH-PLP). He’s a great guy and I’m really grateful he joins me on the maiden flight of my RV.

We selected a nice winter day with almost no cross-wind and the runup and take-off went perfect.

During the climb to circuit altitude I already found the first issue. The plane has a left-leaning tendency, it’s minor, but still something I have to fix.
Other issues are a failing elevator trim (the damned thing worked every time I tried it the last 3 months). Also I couldn’t find the ‘efficient’ power setting with the combination of ULPower 520iSA and the Airmaster prop.

The approach on final was a little too low, but the landing went very nice (again no cross wind component). Maarten didn’t have to intervene. During the second flight we found the stall speed of 49kts clean and 45kts full flaps. Also Maarten showed be how to properly execute a barrel roll and we checked the speed up to 188kts. Next time we’ll need to approach the Vne (200kts).

Second landing was better, but I had issues keeping it center (veered to the left). Nothing major, but enough to get a slap on the wrist from Maarten.
Taxiing back to the hangar to remove the top cowl and check the engine.

Two words: RV Grin.

Video

Addition

Apparently a spotter (Bart Hoekstra) was alert and made this beautiful photo of my landing.

Part 1

Part 2

My first idea was to place the RV at a distance from the wall, that represents the Datum. Turns out that is irrelevant.

Both determining the Arms (distances from Datum) and the Weights, must be done with the plane at level. This means the longerons must be level with the floor. I now (from building) that with two apple crates I’m very close.

I just need a few blocks, while my Dad checks the level.

Now I can check the distance from botch wings, to be sure that the plane is parallel to the wall, so all other measurements are ‘in sync’.

Now we use the laser measure tool to measure the distance from the tailwheel to the Datum. Since the laser is in an angle, I need to calculate the distance (the laser is the hypotenuse).

With all the distances, we can now put the plane on the scales. The right scale is on rollers, so side loading is not influencing the weighing.

Setting it level again with the scales under the main gears and the tail wheel.
RTFW

Closing the canopy (because it should be in flight-mode) and all the fuel is drained, only the ‘unusable fuel is still in there.

And there you have it! I didn’t initialize the scales and now my measurement is invalid. RTFM man, every time when I think ‘I got this’ I screw up!

So we can remove the plane and initialize the scales (1 minute of work, 30 minutes wasted). I take a picture of the initialization process (as evidence).

After positioning the plane on the scales again, we level it again both longitudinal and latitudinal.

Yes I know, my stickers are created by a dyslectic, so that will be corrected later.

The right main gear is nicely on the scale and the scale is blinking.

Same for the left main gear

and the tailwheel.

So this is the position for the weight.

And there you have it. 227kg left main, 221kg right main and 32kg on the tailwheel, total of 480kg. That’s what you get if you install a ULPower engine, it’s really light.

Now we are adding fuel to calibrate the fuel senders. We had to do this twice, because I don’t RTFM on how to calibrate.

Also I need to calibrate both the EMS and EFIS, because the fuel level indicators are each other backup. Every time we pour a few liters in and then we calibrate the instruments.

So now also for the left wing and we are done.

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-10-20)

Time: 5 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-10-24)

Time: 5 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-10-27)

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-10-31)

Video

This engineer will check all the technical aspects as well as the rules described by the Dutch Government in the laws regarding Experimental airplanes.

Still a lot of work to do, the flaps and ailerons need to be installed and all inspection area’s need to be open.

I start by installing the ailerons and set the pushrods in such position that the ailerons are level and in line with the wing tips. Later I found I had to fine tune the settings, once the flaps were installed. Further adjustments were necessary when I installed the interior.

It turns out the center console (I created) prevents full aileron deflection to the right, because the stick is pushing against my leg which is between the stick and center console. I set both sticks just very slightly outboard to enable full aileron deflection to both sides.

The paint-job had deviated ever so slightly from the paint-scheme fortunately Cees could add the missing black outline with special wrap tape.

Next is the lights in the wing (tips). I have installed FlyLeds with a prebuild wiring harness.

The left (Red) side was ok, the right (Green) side, two leds were not working. Found a loose contact and fixed it.

Now both Navigation lights are working correctly. I left the excess of the wiring harness in the wing tip and rudder horn.

Installing the flaps was harder than it should be. The flaps were installed before and I tested them. This time it looked like the eye-bolt actuating the flap didn’t fit nice in the hole in the fuselage.

I needed to use the Unibit drill to gently reem the hole, in order to make the flaps fully retract. So now I can use the full range of the flaps. This is the night before the inspection.

After a careful inspection the next day, I had a few changes to make before receiving my approval. The inspector didn’t like the fact I had a glass cockpit with non TSO’ed equipment. So to comply I installed two ‘steam gauges’, a standard UMA Altimeter and Airspeed indicator from Van’s webshop. Also I had to change my dual battery setup.

In the end I had the inspection completed and now the last step is to install all the fairings and perform a mass and balance measurement. After that step I can send my 15 document Airworthiness application to ILenT (Dutch FAA).

Time: 6 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-10-06)

Time: 5 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-10-10)

Time: 5 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-10-13)

Time: 5 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-10-17)

We decided to use the same method as the time we attached the wing for setting the angle of incidence. So we use the small saw horses with MDF plates and old seat cushions. This time the Wings are painted, so we need to be extra careful.

For the left wing we measure the distance to the first saw horse. We need enough room for the Pitot/AoA tube.

This time it is easier to insert the wing spar into the main bulk head, Probably because we are ‘experienced’. Also we need to take care of the bottom skin. The bottom skin of the fuselage slides over the skin of the wings.

Once the main wing spar has been inserted into the main bulk head, the aft spar needs to slide into the seat bulk head. There is not much leverage to get the aft spar in the bulk head. By gently wiggling the Wing we can slide it in.

With both spars installed and the skins correctly weaved, we can attach the forward wing bracket. It connects the fuel tank bracket to the fuselage. Now we need to connect the Fuel line, the return line, the vent line and the fuel level sender wire.

The last step (and by far the the hardest) is inserting all the 10 bolts on the inside that clamp the wing spar to the main bulk head. The bolts fit is really tight inside spars and it takes some time to get them all in.

Ok, next up the right wing, this is easier, because of even more ‘experience’. Also there are less connections and there is no Pitot tube. In order to make it easier to insert the wings, we have the crates under the tailwheel to set the plane (almost) level.

The Wing is not that heavy, picking it from the cradle, however there is very little space, so it’s hard to insert the wing, while holding it at the leading edge.

I made the holes in the wing ribs and fuselage skin for the electric wiring with a very tight fit. It makes it really hard push through the skins. It prevents vibrations during flight, but it’s horrible when the wing is just hanging there.

Now again inserting all the bolts, to secure the wing (spar) to the main bulkhead.

Now I can screw the nuts on and torque the nuts.

When the Wings are attached, we can lower the tailwheel to the ground.

Time: 6 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-19)

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-22)

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-26)

Time: 6 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-29)

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-10-03)

Video

I’m working on the Radio Antenna and the Transponder Antenna, while my dad is finishing the Empennage. With the Antenna’s installed we can start working on the Canopy.

The installation is simple, just insert the two Canopy rollers on the front and attach the rear to the slider block. The hard part is the seal block that slides after the slider block.

Removel af the paint paper needs to be done with care, since it could rip the paint.

The painters-tape is everywhere, to prevent the inside of the cockpit being painted. But now we have to remove all the painters-tape.

Done, the Canopy is installed. Here’s a nice top view. Next up is the Airmaster Propeller.

Ok, this one could have been done after the Wings, but the bottom side of the left Wing requires a registration number and that is easier to install while in the cradle.

There are 6 bolts with Drive Lugs that connect the Propeller to the Flange. Airmaster does NOT use Bolts that require safety wiring, but NordLock Washers instead. You have to be careful, it turns out NordLock washers can only be used twice, before you have to buy new ones.

When everything is installed, I can install the Spinner.

The Propeller Pitch Control brushes needs to be close to the Slipring on the Prop.

Now we can prepare the Wings. First thing is installing the Aileron Pushrods. Once the Aileron Pushrods are installed, we can install the connecting Pushrod to the Aileron.

The default setting of the Pushrods can be set with the Aileron template in the Van’s kit. This piece of Aluminum is easily overlooked as useful, because it is not a piece of the Aircraft, but a measuring template.

Yes, here is Cees, who did the paint job on the Plane. He also created the decals for all plackards and registration signs.

I still think the registration is too big and useless considering the Transponder, but it’s regulation so ….

Damn, I’m really proud and it feels we are getting there.

This is why we didn’t install the Wings yet. This is the bottom of the left Wing and it’s much easier to stick the registration decals on it while standing up than laying on the ground.

Check it out, PH-MNX, it looks great.

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-15)

Video

During painting I had the Vertical Stabilizer and Rudder installed and removed the Horizontal Stabilizer and the Elevator. The main reason is that the paint scheme lines need to correctly align. The only way to do that is that the parts are assembled.

The Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator don’t have lines that continue on the Fuselage. However we now have to remove both the Rudder and the Vertical Stabilizer in order to install the Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator.

Maybe I should have only insert bolts in the Rudder instead I had installed it completly. Anyway the Rudder is off and I have to carefully place it somewhere the paint is not scratched.

Next is the Vertical Stabilizer needs to be removed. The Vertical Stabilizer is currently only attached to the end of the Fuselage.

With all the Empennage parts removed, you have to be careful, because the Engine is installed and that makes the airplane nose heavy.
We place the cradle with the wings aside, so we can pick up the Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator.

Before installing the Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator, we need to remove the paper and tape that I used to prevent the internals of the empennage te bo painted.

Now we can install the Horizontal Stabilizer and Elevator onto the Fuselage and bolt it to the attach points.

The Elevator is operated with a long push rod running from the baggage compartment all the way to the tail. There is not much room to insert the bolt and washers.

Now we can torque all the nuts and mark them with torque seal.

Once the Horizontal Stabilizer is attached, we can start installing the Vertical Stabilizer, which is partly attached to the Horizontal Stabilizer. It feels great to torque the nuts for the last time, knowing this is the last time they need to be torqued (besides maintenance).

Next is reinstalling the Rudder. The wiring for the tail light requires a service loop, which is a big loop in the wire to prevent it from wearing out when the Rudder is operated.

Finally we need to attach the Rudder cables to the Rudder and clamp the chains and springs from the Rudder to the Tail Wheel.

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  4/0  (2021-09-08)

Video

The paint shop is not used to painting airplanes. Typically they paint trucks and other industrial equipment. However, they were excited to take this challange to paint my RV-7.

I helped them to ‘hang’ all the parts on the mobile scaffold. Especially the wings were tricky, because with the wing tips installed they are hard to attach.

As you can see, I used a tube and inserted them through the light openings in the wing tips into the holes of the wing ribs. Here the primer coating is already done.

The big hole provides a strong ventilation of dust and paint particles. This keeps the coatings clean.

With the first (White) layer in place, the masking tapes are set for the next layer. The part that remains white is covered with paper. It turns out the order of the layers is determined by there opaqueness.

I was a little scared when I saw this result, because I was sure the Orange collor was not the one I thought it was. But it actually was the correct color. Apparently the shinny metallic characteristics of the paint requires a finish coat to come alive.

Here are the other parts in the dry cell.

The details on the wings and wheel pants are a meticulous job.

The Red paint is done, so now the last color (Black) is sprayed. After these layers, two layers of clear coat are applied for the final finish.

Wow, in the dry cell you can already see the stunning result. I’m really glad I didn’t try this to do myself.

I’m really mesmerized by the beauty of the paint scheme.

Oops, I see there is a small Black outline ‘forgotten’. We touched that up after we moved to the airport.

Man, also the details on the fairings look great.

The wheel pants look stunning.

Now we have to ship the result to the airport. This time we have to be even more careful, not to scratch the paint.

First we ship the wings, horizontal stabilizer and the small parts.

The second ride we moved the fuselage and the canopy.

Done, all the parts are now in the (temporary) hangar. We can now start with final assembly.

Time: 30 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-07-..)

Time: 30 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-08-..)

Time:  6 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-04)

Video