We decided to use the same method as the time we attached the wing for setting the angle of incidence. So we use the small saw horses with MDF plates and old seat cushions. This time the Wings are painted, so we need to be extra careful.

For the left wing we measure the distance to the first saw horse. We need enough room for the Pitot/AoA tube.

This time it is easier to insert the wing spar into the main bulk head, Probably because we are ‘experienced’. Also we need to take care of the bottom skin. The bottom skin of the fuselage slides over the skin of the wings.

Once the main wing spar has been inserted into the main bulk head, the aft spar needs to slide into the seat bulk head. There is not much leverage to get the aft spar in the bulk head. By gently wiggling the Wing we can slide it in.

With both spars installed and the skins correctly weaved, we can attach the forward wing bracket. It connects the fuel tank bracket to the fuselage. Now we need to connect the Fuel line, the return line, the vent line and the fuel level sender wire.

The last step (and by far the the hardest) is inserting all the 10 bolts on the inside that clamp the wing spar to the main bulk head. The bolts fit is really tight inside spars and it takes some time to get them all in.

Ok, next up the right wing, this is easier, because of even more ‘experience’. Also there are less connections and there is no Pitot tube. In order to make it easier to insert the wings, we have the crates under the tailwheel to set the plane (almost) level.

The Wing is not that heavy, picking it from the cradle, however there is very little space, so it’s hard to insert the wing, while holding it at the leading edge.

I made the holes in the wing ribs and fuselage skin for the electric wiring with a very tight fit. It makes it really hard push through the skins. It prevents vibrations during flight, but it’s horrible when the wing is just hanging there.

Now again inserting all the bolts, to secure the wing (spar) to the main bulkhead.

Now I can screw the nuts on and torque the nuts.

When the Wings are attached, we can lower the tailwheel to the ground.

Time: 6 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-19)

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-22)

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-26)

Time: 6 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-09-29)

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-10-03)

Video

I love the smell of Aluminum in the morning! I placed the left wing in the stand, attached the tank and clecoed the top skin to it, in order to rivet it this weekend.

After five hours of doing little things here and there and cleaning up, the right wing could be placed in the wing cradle. The flap brace is the one with the lighting holes and the aileron fairing in the sloped strip between the aileron brackets.

Here’s the outboard aileron bracket, I used a flush rivet in the bottom hole, so the aileron won’t touch the bracket attachment. The aileron fairing is attached to the rear spar and the top skin.

In the center of the wing is the other aileron bracket. Again on the aileron side I used a flush rivet.

According to SERVICE BULLETIN 16-03-28, there can be Cracking of wing aft spar web at the inboard aileron hinge bracket attach rivet. Van’s Aircraft send me some doubler plates enclosed with the wing kit.

I attached the aileron bracket together with the new doubler plates. I did modify the plates by trimming the bottom side, to be able to buck the rivets when riveting the bottom skin.

The flap brace is thicker than the aileron fairing. It’s also attached to the rear spar, but will be clecoed together with the flap hinges to the bottom skin. So the ailerons are attached to the wings with brackets with bearings, while the flaps are attached to the brace with a piano hinge.

Time: 5 Hours, Rivets: 114/1

I purchased the Dynon Roll Servo Bracket kit in the U.K.
The original Van’s Aileron brackets look like this.

The trick is to replace the bottom one with the bracket of the Roll Servo kit.
On the (bottom) left the original bracket, on the right the Roll Servo bracket.

Installed and the bolts on the right torque. In hind sight I don’t think (pre)installing the Roll Servo bracket is beneficial. You can see the platenuts of the service hatch, so in my opinion it is just as easy to install it afterwards (when the skins are already riveted.

Maybe I need to install the entire kit including the Servo, although that would be a considerable investment. I’ll check with the NVAV.

Time: 1 Hours, Rivets: 0/0