First step is clecoing the leading edge to the main spar of the right wing. Since all the rivet holes have been match drilled earlier by me, that’s an easy job. A problem are the locations where both the skin, main spar and the rib flange come together. These rib flanges are very flexible and are hard to align.

Speaking about rib flanges, I noticed that they also are there UNDER the skin of the tanks. Painful, because I didn’t notice that attaching the tank on the left wing. So that means I have to “unscrew” the tank again to rivet these ribs. Only 8 rivet on each side.

I’m consistent though, because just as on the left wing, I was also eager to attach the tank on the right wing. Knowing I had the rib flanges riveted, I can safely screw the tank, NOT. This time I forgot the rivets of the leading edge rib. You need access through the rib holes to be able to rivet those.

Oh well, next time I can unscrew both tanks again and set these rivets. Probably takes longer to unscrew the tanks than to rivet.
Just as with the left wing, the leading edges really look great and I can’t wait to attach the top skin, because then it will really look like a wing of an airplane.

I still didn’t order the fuselage kit of Van’s. I want to and probably need to do it, to prevent down-time. However I did anticipate a lower (even plummeting) US Dollar, so I could pick up both the fuselage and finish kit cheap. To my surprise the US Dollar actually rose against the Euro. So I’m postponing, but I can’t wait much longer, considering there is a 8 week delay and probably another 2 weeks shipping. Hence if I order now it will still take until the end of February before the kit arrives.
I still have some work on the wing tips and those of the Empennage, however with Dutch winter temperatures, working with resin is probably not very handy.

On Wednesday I clecoed the top skin to the Right wing. Next weekend my dad will help me rivet the right top skin. Many times it is handy when I’ve got some help, with the wing skins it is indispensable.

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets: 195/1 (2018-12-09)

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets: 52/0 (2018-12-12)

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I choose to place it directly next to the original pitot-tube position, on the other side of the rib. This is also the position of the photo’s in the Dynon manual and it prevents interference with the bell-crank. The holes in the bottom wing skin must be exact and are NOT pre-drilled, so extra care must be taken.

After the pitot-tube preparations, we removed the bottom wing skins and placed the leading edge on the left wing. Now we can rivet the ribs on the main spar. Only the most inboard and most outboard ribs can be riveted with the rivet gun and the bucking bar. The rest I’ll do later with pop-rivets.

After attaching the ribs, we can use the pneumatic squeezer to rivet the skin to the main spar with flush rivets. Both on the top and bottom side.

Now we can place the left fuel tank on the main spar and connect it tight to the leading edge.

The fuel tanks are not riveted but screwed to the main spar. Also the tank attach angles are bolted to the main spar.

Now it is really starting to look like a wing.

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets: 139/0

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I checked the bottom (i.e. baffle) which is placed on its tank attach angles on cardboard beam. After filling the tank with water it turns out the cardboard stayed dry. Hence NO LEAKS!

After removing the water I visually checked the bottom meticulously, but found no traces of a leak.

I started early by myself and riveting the top rivets with the squeezer. Turned on the heater and placed all the cleco’s.

Later that afternoon my dad joined me and helped with riveting. Although you can do it by yourself, it’s much easier to do it with two persons. Through the access hole of the stall warner you can see the bucking bar at work.

We riveted both the left and right leading edges, so next time I can assemble them to the wings (main spar).

We discussed the overlap of wing skins. According to the manual joining the tank skin with the inboard and outboard skins that overlap, you need to file of the edges to make the connection less abruptly.

Indeed the two overlapping skins protrude significantly over the tank skin, so that needs to be reduced.

We decided to use the Scotch Brite wheel to “file” these of both the top and bottom skin.

Time: 5 Hours, Rivets: 352/0

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Using Cleco’s every 3rd hole to fastening the ribs to the skin. Notice the connecting strip between the leading edge and the Tanks and the “small rib” which is actually the bracket for the stall warner. Moreover I decided to NOT build the stall warner, but add an Angle of Attack sensor and indicator in the plane, which is much more precise than the mechanical stall warner.

The fit of the Left Leading Edge looked a little better than the Right one. The distance between the Right Leading Edge and the main Wing Skins was about half a millimeter. On the Left it’s an exact match.

Clecoing the ribs to the main spar. I’m wondering how I can rivet these, but let’s defer that doubt to the assembling section.

The connection strip needs an exact distance between the Leading Edge and the Tanks. Hence a caliper is used to insert the strip in there. Gently whacking the strip while holding the caliper to see if it’s correct.

Finishing the strip by drilling it with the skin holes as a guide. After that match-drilling all other holes in the skin.

Last step of the Leading Edge is widening (and positioning) the hole for the Tie-Down bolt. Notice the access plate for the stall warner. I’m going to check with Van’s if maybe the “bay” for the stall warner is suitable for the pitot tube. Of course I need to get the tube through the main spar so there’s that.

Time: 3 Hours, Rivets: 0/0

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With the Leading Edge Skin in the Tank Cradle, the skin is bend just right to insert the ribs and Cleco them. Although sometime it’s hard to get the most forward (on the bottom) Cleco in there.

Fitting the Leading Edge on top of the main spar was a good match, however there is a small “gap” between the top skin and the leading edge skin. Probably half a milimeter. Not sure if it is better to use epoxy resin to fill this gap (I’ll think about that later).

The most inboard rib is not pre-drilled and needs to be fitted “manually”.

Also an additional strip of Aluminum needs to be constructed, to connect the Leading Edge skin with the Tank skin. The instruction that this part needs to be constructed is on detail F on the drawing, but not in the manual. I really think Van’s could improve the manual by adding these hints in the text. It’ll probably take a complete page on the whole plane, so no worries there.

Drilling time, starting from the constructed plate down and outward.

Easy task, next time the Left Leading Edge and then prepare for the Tanks. I’ve read (sealant) horror stories on this, so I’m really eager to see if those are true.

Time: 5 Hours, Rivets: 0/0

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