That’s it, at least for now. The two empty spaces are going to be filled with two ‘standard’ 10″ Android tablets. The right one will be used for navigation, running EasyVFR. The left tablet will run a Pyxis avionics system. That’s avionics that I develop myself.

I tried not to drop stuff in my cockpit, while the floor panels are partly open. However I failed and dropped parts twice in there. Since it’s a tailwheel the parts immediately roll towards the seat bulkhead (under the floor panels. The only way to get these parts out is lifting the tail and knock gently on the bottom.

The Co-Pilot stick is detachable, with the help of a DB9 plug, the switches on top of the stick are connected.

Routing the wires from the sticks to the Console hardware is a challange. Also I installed the Flyleds main board right under the floor panels.

Now that the Wind shield bar is installed, the Canopy can be final fitted. Note the holes in the Forward Top skin. I’ve inserted them in case I need de-fog air flow.

As part of the aircraft registration in the Netherlands, a fire-resistant identification plate is required. I’ve taken the liberty to also add the main aircraft information on the plate.

Time: 8 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-02-07)

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-02-10)

Time: 3 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2021-02-12)

Time: 6 Hours, Rivets:  4/0  (2021-02-13)

The space between the Rear Skirt and the Fuselage was almost half an Inch on some places, especially where the Rear Skirt meets the Side Skirt. In several video’s I found that some RV builders just left the space as is, which is probably not an issue, but it just looks crappy. I decided I had to solve this.

I didn’t find many useful tips on how to create a better fit. Some builders just created fiberglass skirts from scratch, but besides the extra work, I like Aluminum.
I tried fluting strips of Aluminum and filling the ridges with resin, but it didn’t look good ad it creates a thick border layer with the Fuselage.

In the end I decided to cut the Rear Skirt into pieces, so I can individually bend them accordingly to the Fuselage. I first drill holes about two inches apart and almost three inches from the edge. This will prevent the cuts from cracking. This will probably not happen, because there is no stress on the Skirt, but … whatever.

Now I can attach fiberglass to the inside of the strips, close the Canopy with the strips tightly bend against the Fuselage an let the resin cure. The result is a excellent fitting Canopy. The excess of resin needs to be removed and to finish it, I used Aluminum putty.

Meanwhile in the background I’m working on the Panel. The holes for the USB chargers are already drilled and I’m now working on the holes for the EFIS.

I’m a sucker for symmetry, so the EMS (which looks identical to the EFIS is on the right side of the Panel.
In the middle at the bottom is the hole for the propeller controller.

I bought a Airmaster propeller that is specifically designed for the ULPower 520iSA engine. It’s a constant Speed propeller with a electrical governor (the ULPower engine does not support hydraulic governors).

Oh I also finished my AHARS system, which consists of an MGL SP6 Magnetometer and an SP7 Attitude sensor. I used the “standard” Van’s ADHARS bracket to install them. I can’t use the attachment holes, so I use thin rubber stickers and a Velcro ribbon (and also a tire-wrap) to secure them.

Time: 6 Hours, Rivets:  4/0  (2020-01-11)

Time: 8 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2020-10-18)

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2020-10-19)

Video

The parts are still not primed and it is just an initial fitting and match drilling all the holes. I just drew some instruments on the panel to see how it could look.

First of it MUST be as symmetric as possible. I’m working on my own avionics, so the middle three ‘screens’ will be Android Tablets, for which I will develop the software myself. To make my avionics development not impede my first flight I will also insert ‘standard’ avionics, that later can be used as backup. This setup assumes there is a center console with a bridge going up to the panel.

The Top Skin fits nicely around the Panel. It is not bend yet and after priming I decided it would be easier to bend it so there is less tension in the aluminum.

The middle rib has an extra angle to stiffen it and it connects to the brace bar of the Canopy roll bar later.

Ok let’s fit the skin. Just as with the Aft Top Skins, I start on one side and work my way over the top to the other side.

The ribs need some extra cleco’s to adjust to the correct placement. Later I can drill the holes without the cleco’s and then move the cleco’s and repeat the process.

The skin on the right side didn’t really fit nicely. Or maybe I should say the skins are very tight. Anyway, I will probably rivet the skin first to the longerons and then insert the ribs.

This is dangerous, because it could mean I’m not able to insert the ribs. But I’ll figure that out later.

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets: 12/0 (2020-02-29)

Time: 5 Hours, Rivets:  0/0 (2020-03-01)

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets:  0/0 (2020-03-04)

Video

That’s why I have the set of Thread taps (imperial measurements) to solve these issues.

I couldn’t reach in with the normal thread tap wrench, so I use a small ratchet wrench to tap the thread into the nutplate.

The forward baggage side panel is removable, to provide access to the Flap actuator rods to the wings. In case of some issue, you should be able to service these parts.

Now I can cleco all Floor panels to the bottom ribs and start inserting blind rivets (LP 4-3). Since it is impossible to use ‘normal’ rivets.

Some holes are just slightly of (probably from priming), so they need to be widened ever so little.

The center lines are not riveted, because the covers need to be removable. In this case for the Elevator pushrods. I use the sqeeuzer to dimple the nutplate holes.

I can now start on attaching the seat back placement on the floor with piano hinges. The pins of the piano hinges require some processing, to be able to remove them to adjust the seat back.

There are three defined places where you can attach the seat back to the floor.
I can now start on the seats itself. The material is very thin, but the side angles should provide the strength.

With a fly-cutter I create ‘lightening holes’. These are holes created to make the construction lighter, without decreasing the strength.

The seat side angles are pretty thick Aluminum profiles that need to be filed and grinded to nice curves.

Time: 5 Hours, Rivets: 0/0 (2020-01-15)

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets: 0/0 (2020-01-18)

Video