The Wing stand (with the Right Wing) is placed to the left wall. So we can place the Left wing on the workbench.

We have to remove the Left Tank from the wing, because we need to attach a wire to the Fuel Level Sender (I forgot) and to install a wider Fuel Return Line (I made the wrong assumption). I built the return line just in case I would select a fuel injected engine (which I did). However I assumed the return line didn’t need to be that wide. Right?!

I remove the bolts that fasten the Wing to the Fuselage, while my Dad “wiggles” the Wing, to remove it from the main bulkhead.

I decided not to remove the Tank right now and first fix the Fuel Return Line. As you can see the wing barely fits in the workshop.

With the Wings detached and set aside, we can now maneuver the Fuselage outside.

The door of the workshop is not wide enough to fit the Landing Gear, however we can lift it to the side, so we can drag the plane outside.
No idea how to do this if there is a heavy engine in it, we’ll see.

It’s like a puzzle. Now we rearrange the workshop with the Wing Stand.

And also with the workbench, so we can push the Fuselage back in again.

Backwards is harder, as you need to keep the tail-wheel straight. I opened the Left Tank via the hole that normally holds the Fuel Level Sender.

However that hole is not used for that, as the Sender is in the second or third compartment due to the Flop Tube. With the endoscope we can check the location and routing of the Fuel Return Line.

We removed the “old” Return Line and inserted the new Return Line.

We cleaned up the cover plate and we can use the remaining Tank Sealant to seal the plate to the Tank.

Because I stored the Tank Sealant in a cellar, it is kept cold and I can still use it.

I use the sealant also to keep the return line in position and I covered both the Tank and the plate with it.

Time to screw the plate in place and remove the tank from the wing.

After a night of testing the Tank turns out to be sealed (again).

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2020-11-15)

Time: 2 Hours, Rivets: 58/1  (2020-11-16)

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The bolts are on the skin and the Baffle at the back of the tank is bolted to the main spar with Tank Attach Angles. These are Z-shaped pieces of Aluminum.

These Tank Attach Angles need to be drilled and six of the seven must have platenuts attached to it. The seventh has no platenuts, but the main spar does. You only drill the center hole and use the main spar as a guide to drill the other holes. This is done on the aft (rear side) of the main spar.

Once the holes are drilled I attach them to the forward side of the main spar to match-drill the center hole in the spar.

Now we can drill the rivet holes for the platenuts in the Tank Attach Angles.

The rivets must be flush, because this side needs to be placed against the main spar. We machine counter-sink to make the rivets flush.

With the micro-stop it’s very easy to machine counter-sink the angles. You adjust the micro-stop once (for a specific size) and that’s it. Only the edges must be done with care, since one side of the micro-stop is not supported.

I was having a blast and after six rivets realized, I didn’t prime these angles yet.

I considered leaving it is as, but my OCD determined that is NOT acceptable, hence I drilled out the six rivets and will reset them later after priming.

Time: 3 Hours, Rivets: 0/0 (2018-07-08)

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets: 6/6 (2018-07-15)

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