Another option is to attach them permanently to the wings with rivets, either blind or solid rivets. I decided to go for the latter option.

Using solid rivets is a challenge, as the rivets at the trailing edge are hard to reach. I bought an inexpensive endoscope and connected it to a small laptop. This provides me with the ‘sight’ I need to determine if the rivets are set correctly.

Now I can reach in with the bucking bar and check the laptop to see whether I’m bucking at the right place and afterwards the quality of the work. Without the endoscope it’s really hard to check inside.

The aft most rivets can be reached by lifting the Aileron. Now that the bottom side of the right Wing is done we turn the Wing top side up on the workbench.

The rivets on the top side are even harder to reach. I duck-taped a hammer as a counter-weight to a stick and taped the bucking bar to the front.

Again by checking the endoscope image on the laptop we can determine the correct position.

With the right Wing finished, we now need to swap Wings. The workshop is too small to handle the swap, so I rolled the workbench out and positioned the cradle to insert the finished Wing.

Now we can lift the left Wing out of the cradle and place it on the workbench. Last stop is moving the cradle out of the way.

The left Wing is a little trickier, because the Pitot tube is in the way. Working on the bottom that is not a problem yet.

To determine the alignment of the Wing Tip, we use a string, that ‘cuts’ through the tooling holes, visualizing the chord. With that, we can position the Aileron in a exact level position.

With the Aileron set, we align the Wing Tip to match the Aileron. The aft most part of the Wing Tip has a small rib inside, because there is no Wing there to keep the Tip in shape.

Drilling the top would be easier the other way around, but with the Pitot tube turning the Wing is not that easy.

To prevent the glass fiber Wing Tip from cracking when riveted, we attach a small Aluminum strip on the inside.

Since the Wing Tip is very flexible, it is easy compressible. To prevent ‘floppy’ Wing Tips, I prepared a foam rib covered with fiberglass and epoxy resin to create a strong structure. Later I glued the rib with resin inside the Wing Tip.

Because I use Flyleds, the lighting panels can almost be completely removed. Now there is enough room to reach inside the Wing Tip. Also for maintenance purposes later.

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets: 29/0  (2020-08-08)

Time: 6 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2020-08-09)

Time: 4 Hours, Rivets:  0/0  (2020-08-10)

Time: 7 Hours, Rivets: 29/0  (2020-08-15)

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The forward part of the Rudder tips is close during fabrication, in contrast with the Elevator tips, which are open. However I did need to add a layer of epoxy resin and clean it up to make it smooth.

The Aluminum edges, where the tips connect to are also cleaned up with a sandpaper grinder. It enables merging with the resin and produces a smooth result.

Fitting the Rudder tip takes a lot of time. It’s a loop of attaching the tip, check for bumps and unevenness, file and grind and fit again.

Same procedure for the tip of the vertical stabilizer. I used too much epoxy resin for the forward part and had to grind of a lot of material. Note: making the resin hot (by grinding) also makes it weak again.

Next step is to align both tips, so the line of the vertical stabilizer and the rudder should continue nicely.

Once everything aligns, we can start riveting the tips. I use blind rivets, because it’s impossible to use regular rivets and I don’t need access, so I don’t need to be able to detach them.

So now when I created some epoxy resin, I try to handle all tasks that require it. Making resin for every little thing would be too much overhead and a waste of resin (you always make too much).

I use resin on the merge overlap of Aluminum and the glass fiber tips. Also I fill the holes of the blind rivets. Again I shouldn’t use so much resin, because it only results in more grinding.

Time: 3 Hours, Rivets: 18/0 (2020-04-04)

Time: 3 Hours, Rivets:  0/0 (2020-04-08)

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In hind-side, I’d probably should have just finished it than and there, because It turns out I still do it at different times. On the other hand, it’s not a problem anyway. I just had to find the Tips in my storage rack.

From the factory, the preformed Elevator Tips fit quite nicely. Just a little trimming is enough.

Because the Tips are blind-riveted to the Elevator, with the Aluminum to the outside, the rivet in pulled to the fiberglass. To prevent pulling the rivet right through the fiberglass, you have to secure it on the inside. You can use either a small washer or aluminum strip. I decided to make custom ‘washers’ from Aluminum. just a strip cut into small squares and drill them.

As a final touch I dimpled the ‘washers’, so it is distributes the tension when pulling the rivet.

Drilling the holes though the Aluminum into the glassfiber works good. However you need to check if the Tip is straight on the Aluminum. The preformed fiberglass fits great, but it will not guarantee being aligned, so check it.

Flipping the Horizontal Stabilizer to drill the other side.
Another problem is the Lead weight on the forward part of the Elevator. In Hind-side (again) it’s better to trim it on the forward side, so you can comfortably make a fiberglass front piece to it.

I didn’t dimple the Aluminum, which is a good thing, as it made fitting the Tips much easier.

With some time left, we also started with the Rudder Tips (the top side. The Rudder Horn (bottom part) can only be done after fitting it to the tail. Because of the Tail wheel, you need to do some extra trimming.

Again after trimming I had to dimple the Aluminum (with the squeezer of course). I used the same Aluminum (custom) square ‘washers’ on the inside to prevent ripping the fiberglass when riveting.

Time: 5 Hours, Rivets: 31/1 (2020-03-29)

Time: 3 Hours, Rivets:  2/0 (2020-04-01)

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