The water test showed that the Right Wing Lank was not completely closed. It leaked at the outboard rib on the leading curve and at the screws for the flange. We decided to fix these leaks and close the Left tank with the baffle.
First step is mixing the tank sealant, we are getting quite experienced in it and combined with our kit dispenser “trick” it’s really easy.
Before starting on the right tank leaks, I prepare the Left Tank Baffle by sealing the fuel sender. The sender is in the second bay, because the first bay is occupied with the Flop Tube.
We added a thick line of tank sealant ad the outboard rib and we removed the gasket completely and replaced it with tank sealant. It will make it harder to reopen the flange, but if you need that, you are already in deep shit.
This time we didn’t make enough tank sealant, so half-way we had to mix a second batch.
While my dad removes the cleco’s and inserts the rivets, I use the squeezer to set the rivets. The tank attach angles on top of the baffle are pop riveted, since it’s impossible to reach them.
Cleaning up the tools with acetone, works like a charm.
Now I have to wait until the tank sealant in dry and then we can re-test the right tank with the water test. Also we need to test the left tank with the “air” test. I’m a bit tensed as I sincerely hope the tenk is leak-free. If not we need to fix it and that is probably not easy.
Time: 5 Hours, Rivets: 188/0 (2018-10-28)
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